Enamelling
Enamelling experiences in London.
Date ​
Size​​​​​​​​​​
Oct'24​
Roughly 4cm​​
Introduction
During my visit to Geneva, Switzerland, I discovered the Patek Philippe Museum and "Watches and Talents" exhibition by Haute Horlogerie Foundation. This experience revealed the relationship between the art and watchmaking industries. I was fascinated to learn that many of the artisans creating watch dials with art techniques, including miniature painting, enameling, and wood marquetry.
Patek Philippe Museum described enamellers as modern-day alchemists, expertly manipulating metal, colors, and fire to create enduring works of art (2024). Intrigued by this craft that is ancient yet timeless, I seize the opportunity to learn enamelling when I was invited by my classmate.
Enamelling - before final firing
Patek Philippe Museum, Enamel watch pieces
"Watches and Talents" exhibition by Haute Horlogerie Foundation. Enamel artist, Anita Porchet.
Process
For my enamel piece, I chose to base the design on a previous sketch. Preparation of the metal pendants involved grinding the edges and applying a transparent enamel to the back as a protective layer for the firing process.
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Enameling requires multiple firings, with each round carrying the risk of damaging the piece. My instructor emphasized the importance of minimizing the number of firings to reduce this risk.
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I began by applying a base layer of sky blue enamel to the front of the pendant, creating a surface similar to a primed canvas. After firing this initial layer, the painting process began.
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The paint preparation was reminiscent of oil painting techniques. I mixed pigments with oil and ground them using a palette knife. Much like in ceramics, the colors might shift during firing.
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To add depth to my small pendant, I adopted a two-layer approach: a base layer, followed by firing, then a detailed top layer. The pendant's size made this process similar to miniature painting, requiring precise brushwork.
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Before each firing, I allowed the oil-based paint to dry completely. Once the painting was complete, I polished the back and edges of the pendant and attached a necklace to finish the piece.
Choosing the base layer
Grinding edges
Base layer
Firing process
Grinding enamel paint
Design based on previous sketch
Painting process
Polishing edges
before final firing
Cooling down after firing
Complete piece
Reference
Haute Horlogerie Foundation (2024) Watches and Talents exhibitions. Available at: https://www.hautehorlogerie.org/en/communications/watches-and-talents-exhibition (Accessed 14 Oct 2024)
Patek Philippe Museum (2024) Rare handcrafts. Available at https://www.patek.com/en/collection/rare-handcrafts (Accessed 14 Oct 2024)