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Enamelling

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Enamelling experiences in London.

Date       â€‹

Size​​​​​​​​​​

Oct'24​

Roughly 4cm​​

Introduction 

During my visit to Geneva, Switzerland, I discovered the Patek Philippe Museum and "Watches and Talents" exhibition by Haute Horlogerie Foundation. This experience revealed the relationship between the art and watchmaking industries. I was fascinated to learn that many of the artisans creating watch dials with art techniques, including miniature painting, enameling, and wood marquetry.

 

Patek Philippe Museum described enamellers as modern-day alchemists, expertly manipulating metal, colors, and fire to create enduring works of art (2024). Intrigued by this craft that is ancient yet timeless, I seize the opportunity to learn enamelling when I was invited by my classmate. 

Enamelling - before final firing

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Patek Philippe Museum, Enamel watch pieces

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"Watches and Talents" exhibition by Haute Horlogerie Foundation. Enamel artist, Anita Porchet. 

Process 

For my enamel piece, I chose to base the design on a previous sketch. Preparation of the metal pendants involved grinding the edges and applying a transparent enamel to the back as a protective layer for the firing process.

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Enameling requires multiple firings, with each round carrying the risk of damaging the piece. My instructor emphasized the importance of minimizing the number of firings to reduce this risk.

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I began by applying a base layer of sky blue enamel to the front of the pendant, creating a surface similar to a primed canvas. After firing this initial layer, the painting process began.

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The paint preparation was reminiscent of oil painting techniques. I mixed pigments with oil and ground them using a palette knife. Much like in ceramics, the colors might shift during firing.

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To add depth to my small pendant, I adopted a two-layer approach: a base layer, followed by firing, then a detailed top layer. The pendant's size made this process similar to miniature painting, requiring precise brushwork.

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Before each firing, I allowed the oil-based paint to dry completely. Once the painting was complete, I polished the back and edges of the pendant and attached a necklace to finish the piece.

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Choosing the base layer

Grinding edges

Base layer

Firing process

Grinding enamel paint

Design based on previous sketch

Painting process

Polishing edges

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before final firing 

Cooling down after firing

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Complete piece

Reference

 

Haute Horlogerie Foundation (2024) Watches and Talents exhibitions. Available at: https://www.hautehorlogerie.org/en/communications/watches-and-talents-exhibition (Accessed 14 Oct 2024) 


Patek Philippe Museum (2024) Rare handcrafts. Available at https://www.patek.com/en/collection/rare-handcrafts (Accessed 14 Oct 2024)

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